HD/Custom Wheel conversion
for the Roadstar
I carry Looney axles for
converting R* to HD/Custom wheels. A very good friend of mine, Lynn
George (Looney), started making custom Roadstar parts after Yamaha
first came out with the Roadstar in 99. He was the first one to design
a lot of the after market products that are available to us. When
he passed away in July 09, I continued to make and sell some of the
parts he has done over the years as well as some parts that are based
on his original products.
Front:
You can go to a 18",
possibly a 19", wheel without any fender mods. You can also go
to a 21" and all you will have to do is Drill new fender mount
holes, in your stock fender, right below your stock holes. You can
either eyeball or measure where to make the holes or tape a couple
of pieces of 1/4" or 1/2" tube to the top of the tire then
set the fender on the tire, over the tubes. Once it's in place, mark
the spots for the holes, remove the fender and drill your new holes.
Touch up the hole opening with a little paint to prevent rusting,
remove the tubes and mount your fender and your good to go.
If you're interested in going to a HD/Custom wheel, you'll need one
of my Looney front axles for converting a R* to a HD/Custom wheel.
You also need spacers as well as caliper/rotor spacers which I can
supply. You can go with HD/Custom rotors or you can go with your stock
rotors by using a RC adapter.
You will need to make sure you get a front wheel with 3/4" bearings
or you will have to get a 1" to 3/4" reducer for each side
of the hub. You'll need axle spacers and probably need either caliper
or rotor spacers. If you get 99 or older HD wheel you'll have Timken
bearings if you go with 2000 newer you'll have sealed bearings. Really
it's your choice, both will work just fine.
For axle spacers take the width of the bearings, outside edge to outside
edge measured through the center of the hub, and subtract that number
from 8.25 (space between the forks). Then take that number and divide
by 2 and you'll have the size of the spacers you will need for each
side.
For the rotor/caliper spacers. Mount the front wheel with the axle
spacers in place. Then place you caliper/calipers on the rotor/rotors
and measure the distance between the ears on the caliper and the mounting
holes on the forks. This is the size spacer you will need for either
the rotors or calipers. You can space it out either way and it will
work fine, just depends on your preference. I spaced out my calipers
because I prefer my rotors in tighter to the wheel, but you can buy
rotor spacers and move the rotor further out to fit the stock mount
for the caliper.
If you go with rotor spacers you will need either the year models
the wheels are for (2000 newer or 99 older) or the diameter of the
ring on the hub that the rotor fit's over so that you get the right
spacer.
Rear:
You'll need a 3/4"
Looney axle, HD/Custom pulley, axle spacers, Looney brake stay for
using your R* caliper with the HD/Custom rotors or a RC components
Adapter to adapt the R* rotor to the HD/Custom wheel. If your wheel
has 1" bearings you will also need either 1" - 3/4"
reducers or you'll need to swap out the 1" bearings for ¾"
bearings.
Depending on what width rear you decide to go with, you may or may
not need a brake stay. If you go with a HD/Custom rotor then you will
need the brake stay. If you go with your stock rotors you might be
able to use the stock brake stay by using a RC components adapter.
It will also depend on the width of the wheel that you go with as
to whether or not you will need a Looney brake stay.
You may also need a rotor and/or a pulley spacer for the rear to get
everything to line up properly
For the rotor/pulley and rear axle spacers, mount your wheel, with
the pulley and rotor bolted in place, on your swingarm with your Looney
axle. Position your wheel/tire so it is lined up with the center line
of the bike. At this point look over the top of the pulley to the
front engine pulley and see if they line up. If not you will need
to determine what size spacer you will need to move the rear pulley
out far enough to get it to line up with the front pulley. You might
have to move the wheel slightly to the pulley side to get it to line
up. Once you have them lined up or know what size spacer you need
to get them lined up, measure the distance between the end of the
hub bearings and the inside edge of the swingarm. Do this for both
sides and this will give you the measurements for the axle spacers.
If your using your stock rotors with an RC adapter you also need to
check the clearance between the rotor and the brake stay to determine
if you will need a spacer for the rotor. If your using a HD/custom
rotor then you won't need to move the pulley as the brake stay floats
on the axle spacers.
If your going to a 240
conversion for the rear, you will need to replace your front pulley
with an offset pulley.